Hi,
My name is Reina and my blood wants me to travel!
Last year I wrote a blog about A budget day trip to Elva and I’ve got a lot of feedback from many friends who visited there or wanted to have a short trip to Elva as well. So, I am back again, with another blog related to travel and another budget destination for us, students!
Whenever I share pictures of Estonia on my social media platform, I get a handful of replies like “Wow, I didn’t know Estonia has this or that”. In my opinion, Estonia is one of the most underrated countries in Europe and very much so a “hidden gem”. Usually, I need to mention “South of Finland” so my audience in other parts of the world can realize where Estonia is located. Yet, I feel like most of the international students often do not know how much potential this country has and how many places they can go, specifically in Tartu.
This time, I wanted to dedicate my last ISA blog to Peipsiääre parish of Tartu county. I went to this parish twice, once during summer and once during autumn. Both experiences were great and nature never stopped surprising me. All I can recommend for now is to save these locations and thank me later ☺
All you need to do is search the name of these destinations on tpilet.ee and use your Tartu bus card to travel in Tartu county for free.
First stop: Alatskivi!
Alatskivi is a small town with a population of around 800 people. It is situated in a scenic area near Lake Peipus, which is the fourth-largest lake in Europe. The town is known for its beautiful natural surroundings, including forests, hills, lakes, and castles, but for me, Alatskivi represents “Juhan Liiv”.
Juhan Liiv (1864- 1913) is one of the most famous Estonian poets and writers. He was born in Alatskivi in a poor family and later in life suffered from mental health. Never the less, his writings have stood the test of time. When I was walking in Alatskivi one of his poems was repeating in my mind; “I Saw Estonia Yesterday” (Eile nägin ma Eestimaad)
“I saw Estonia yesterday.
I saw hovels, huts and shacks,
I saw luggage, bags and sacks,
In the fields, limestone stacks –
I saw Estonia yesterday!
I saw Estonia yesterday!
Farmhouses fallen into decay!
Oh, what an exhausted, blocked-up way!
All around juniper, alder splay!
I saw Estonia yesterday!
I saw Estonia yesterday!
All is shrubbery, thickets, ill,
Places of ugliness and weakened will,
Spirits and thoughts so dusty, still –
I saw Estonia yesterday!”
Just on the other side of the street from where the bus stop in Alatskivi is, you can see two wooden hands in front of their library with the name of Juhan Liiv being carved on it.
Another main attraction in Alatskivi is the Alatskivi Castle (Alatskivi loss), which was built in the 17th century and is one of the best-preserved castles in Estonia. It was modeled after Balmoral castle in the UK. The castle has a rich history and has been used for various purposes over the years, including as a residence for the local nobility.
Today, the Alatskivi Castle is open to the public and is a popular tourist attraction in the region. Visitors can take a guided tour of the castle and learn about its history and the people who lived there. The castle also hosts various cultural events throughout the year, such as concerts and exhibitions. Students who hold ISIC cards can use the student discount as well. In case you would like to chill a bit outside, there is a café and has an outdoor area too.
Alatskivi castle is even more beautiful. If you walk a bit further you will find the yellow National Geographic frame (just like the one in Tartu). It is the place where you can best see how this white castle shines in the middle of the lush greenery nature of Estonia.
You can also walk down the hill to reach the small lake in Alatskivi. It is very peaceful.
Next stop: Kolkja
Kolkja is one of the small villages on the Onion Route. The term “onion” is often used metaphorically to represent the layers of cultural diversity found in this region. The Onion Route which is mentioned as “One Area, Two Nationalities, Three Cultures” refers to a concept related to the cultural diversity and historical heritage of the border region between Eastern Estonia and Russia. This area is characterized by the coexistence and interaction of multiple ethnic groups and cultures.
“One Area” represents the geographical area referred to is the border region between Eastern Estonia and Russia, which encompasses towns, villages, and rural areas on both sides of the border.
“Two Nationalities” represents the two nationalities commonly associated with this region are Estonian and Russian. The border region has historical ties to both Estonia and Russia, resulting in the presence of Estonian-speaking and Russian-speaking communities.
And finally, the “three cultures” represented in the Onion Route concept include the Estonian culture, Russian culture, and the unique cultural heritage that has developed through the interaction and blending of these two cultures over time. The cultural exchange and coexistence in this area have given rise to a distinct cultural identity that combines elements from both Estonia and Russia.
The Onion Route concept aims to highlight the diversity, richness, and complexity of this border region’s cultural heritage. It recognizes the shared history, traditions, language, cuisine, and customs of the different communities living in the area.
The concept also signifies the importance of acknowledging and preserving the cultural heritage of all the communities involved, promoting mutual understanding, and fostering cultural exchange and cooperation between Estonia and Russia.
It’s worth noting that the specific term “Onion Route” may not be widely recognized or used outside of specific contexts or initiatives related to the cultural heritage and tourism development of the Eastern Estonian border region.
Out of all the villages on the Onion Route, I allocated more time walking around Kolkja where there is actually a small museum of old believers. (Which I recommend to call them beforehand and make sure that they are open) I spent few hours just walking around the village and enjoyed the beautiful Peipsi lake.
In Kolkja there is this restaurant called “Kolkja Kala-Sibula Restoran” that has really good high quality food. I highly recommend it!
Last stop: Turgi handicraft farm
Turgi handicraft farm is a bit on an off the beaten path, but very close to Kallaste! The reason I decided to write about this farm is because how special and unique it is! As soon as I entered the place, I felt like all my problems were gone. The owners Ergo and Veinika will definitely show you the best hospitality. Their farm is beautiful, full of handcrafts, and very cozy for gatherings. There is also a sauna with enough accommodating space for those who want to stay the night (you need to book the sauna ahead of time).
When I came to Estonia, I didn’t know that I could weave a carpet!! The magic happened and I finished my first ever carpet over the course of one night. All thanks to the teaching skills of Veinika.
A carpet full of memories that I brought with myself back home, to prove that “I Saw Estonia Yesterday”! However, this time a green and prosperous Estonia as opposed to snowy and cold.
All Images belong to the author unless otherwise stated.
