Have you ever dreamt about visiting a deserted island, but without having to travel too far into the tropical seas? Surprisingly, it can be done in Estonia and that too not more than 20 km from Tallinn. Well, you won’t find coconut trees there, but instead, you will discover something else — something very special and uniquely Estonian!
I am speaking about the island of Naissaar, which is located in the Baltic Sea. Last September, I went there on a trip and I would highly recommend it to you as a very nice option for a weekend trip.
Naissaar island is located so close to Tallinn that you can even see it when strolling along the promenade near Lennusadam bay. If you are an experienced swimmer, you could probably swim to it. But ordinary people usually take the ferry, leave the noisy capital city behind, and after half an hour of sailing leisurely, they find themselves in the silence of an island overgrown with pines and junipers.
It is surprising that very close to a large and densely inhabited city you can find an absolutely deserted and forgotten place. Apart from a few buildings and a couple of tourist guesthouses, there isn’t a single sign of human existence in an area of roughly 20 square kilometers covered with forests, swamps, and stone beaches. There are no shops, cafes, or ATMs here, keep this in mind when traveling here and be prepared before visiting. Sometimes you will have trouble with scrolling your Instagram or TikTok feeds, as there is no mobile service everywhere. This island remained inaccessible to visitors for a long time.
The history of Naissaar is full of mysteries and legends. “Naissaar” means “an island of women” in Estonian (nais- is ‘woman’, saar is ‘island’). The name itself is quite old. It was in the German chronicle of 1075, where the author mentioned the mysterious Terra Feminarum — a Land of women. The name inspired a number of legends: one of them talks of a beautiful princess imprisoned for infidelity, another supposed that there was a kingdom of the Amazons many years ago.
Oddly enough, the true history of the island has never been connected with women. On the contrary, there was a military post here for centuries, which defended Tallinn from the sea. In 1917, when the revolution began in Russia, the island’s soldiers and sailors saw it as the perfect moment to declare themselves to be “Independent Republic of Naissaar”. The republic, which had a population of fewer than 300 people, lasted only two months until the population was forced to evacuate by the German army. But in those two months, they managed to come up with their own constitution and even their own currency.
In Soviet times, there was a border zone here and mine and anti-mine weapons were stored. When the Soviet Union collapsed, the military left the island, leaving behind the blown-up remnants of the garrison facilities. The mysterious glory of the island frightens the locals, who have been reluctant to settle on it for the past 30 years, but it attracts military history fans and ordinary tourists.
What are the island’s main places of interest today?
1) A 34 km of an abandoned narrow-gauge railway which was built on an 8-kilometer-long island. Just imagine bringing a locomotive to this tiny island! Rails cut through the pristine forest and are often the only way to safely cross the swamp. You can securely walk along the rails — there have not been trains here for a long time.
2) A tall lighthouse on the island’s northern edge. It is worth climbing on it to experience the power of the north wind, the might of the Baltic Sea, and, of course, take a selfie against the backdrop of the island from a great height.
3) A huge number of mines are scattered throughout the forest. Don’t worry, they are not dangerous, as they are just shells, but the image as a whole leaves a strong impression. Locals sometimes take away useless mines and make them into grills, flower beds, and even armchairs.
4) Abandoned bunkers. In one of the bunkers, an enterprising local resident has made an exhibition hall and often holds events. Do not miss out on the thrill of traveling through the labyrinths of this abandoned military complex.
5) A theatre in a barn. Estonians love outdoor theatres, so it’s no surprise that sometimes performances are staged in a barn. This is exactly what was built on the island and in the summer you may check out the schedule of events and perhaps attend a performance.
6) The cemetery is an old and calm place with beautiful cast-iron crosses, reminiscent of the fact that sometime in the 19th century, ordinary people lived here until the military closed the island.
A wild forest, endless sea, and a panorama of Tallinn… A visit to Naissaar for one or two days (then take a tent) is a great way to escape from the hustle and bustle and be alone with nature.
Practical tips and links:
Tickets and ferry’s schedule:
Guesthouse:
- https://naissaare.ee/en/ (eng)
All pictures belong to the author.
