Having lived in various countries for work and study purposes, the first thing that I always look to find out about are the customs and ways that each of them celebrates the most well-known holidays. Estonia is no exception to this rule, and even though Halloween is not my personal favourite celebration, the Estonian way of “trick-or-treating” caught my attention.
Estonians celebrate several spiritual holidays during autumn that do not start on 31 October but rather from the end of September. However, the ones that I could personally associate more with Halloween start on 2 November. This day, also known as Hingedepäev, or All Souls’ Day, reminds me of the Mexican holiday Día de los Muertos, when people light candles in memory of their loved ones who are gone. However, there is also an Estonian touch to the customs, as many families also choose to have a sauna followed by a family meal.
Lighting candles for the loved ones that have passed away is one of the customs of Hingedepäev. Image retrieved from: https://virumaateataja.postimees.ee/3894877/tana-on-hingedepaev
Hingedepäev is followed by two more days during November that are considered festive for Estonians and relevant to the spirit of Halloween, with an obvious connection between them. Mardipäev, on the 10th of November, is dedicated to Saint Martin. During that day, fathers, dressed in dark clothing, usually accompany their children around the neighbourhood to knock on neighbours’ doors and, if let in, to receive delicious treats such as kohuke (curd snacks) , kama (a type of mousse created from different types of flour), Estonian chocolate, and cakes. During Kadripäev, on the 25th of November, which is dedicated to Saint Catherine, it is the mothers’ turn to do the same, this time in white clothing.
The custom of Kadripäev, when children visit neighbours’ homes and sing. Image retrieved from: https://harjuelu.ee/kadripaev-kostuum-selga-ja-naabritele-kulla/
Doesn’t this sound a lot like trick-or-treating? There is an Estonian twist to this tradition as well! Estonian singing culture is well-known, and many Estonians join choirs from a very young age to express themselves artistically and keep this piece of cultural heritage alive. There is no better way to do this than continuing the practices of Mardipäev and Kadripäev!
A place that is worth visiting on these days is Tallinn. During Mardipäev celebrations, you can find people in Tallinn as part of Mardilaat, dressed in traditional costumes, wearing masks, drinking, eating and dancing throughout the day and night.
Celebrations of Mardipäev in Tallinn. Image by Rene Jakobson, retrieved from: https://hakkamesantima.ee/page/2/?s=mardilaupaev#
With all of these holidays approaching, in case you have children (or are yourself a child at heart), prepare your repertoire and get ready to receive a lot of delicious snacks. In any case, the sauna or festivities, such as Mardilaat in Tallinn, taking place from 7 to 9 November, are waiting for you!
Cover photo: Arrak, Jüri. Mardiöö . 1987, oil painting, Tartu Kunstimuuseum
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